Fleur de Lys, San Francisco (April 2009)

I figure the two or three people who actually read these commentaries must be scratching their heads at this point. Another meal at Fleur de Lys, you ask? Indeed. The friendly "Hello, Mr. Feher" from the sommelier, and the "Welcome back" from the servers makes one feel right at home.

As for preparation, I learned from my previous meal, in which I could not finish the petite fours or the madeleines. I chalked up the failure to eating a large lunch the day before the dinner. This time, however, I mended my past errors, eating only a plate of wilted kale and caramelized onions the day before, which meant I would have to contend with inanition during a research meeting this afternoon. The discomfort proved worthwhile.

Along with the butter comes a pile of smoked sea salt. The seasoning was spot-on, though, so not once did I need to reach for that most majestic of minerals.

This amuse featured clean flavors, and the chilled temperature left the palate with a silky finish.

Fava bean purée with parmesan and lemongrass Vichyssoise

Mustard seeds overwhelmed the endive. I am just glad that I ate the micro-casserole first, so that I could end with the cucumber, crème fraîche, and caviar.

Poppyseed-onion brioche, bloody mary shooter, and braised endive casserole

Poaching the egg in the shape of a sweetbread was brilliant. In addition, pan-searing the sweetbreads lent a light crust, in contrast to the creamy interior. The morels partially cut through the veal jus' richness, but, hey, veal jus' richness is what makes it so great.

Veal sweetbreads, poached egg, morels, and veal jus

Some might think my animadversion against this dish is nitpicky, but here it is: it gilded the lily. There was no need for so much black truffle. Well-cooked vegetables are delicious as is. Everything was tender - what needed to be al dente was al dente. Mutatis mutandis, this could have been my favorite dish because the artichokes, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, soy beans, asparagus, and carrots were so tasty. Add the xanthous vitellus oozing onto the vegetables, and you have a dish that could proselytize a wowser.

Vegetable ragout and a poached egg

The wolf of the sea lived up to its name. The potatoes and artichokes tasted good, but the sea bass remained the main attraction.

Loup de mer, olive jus, olive oil potatoes, and fried artichokes

The pleasure this plate brought me defies punctuation. Something about eating game gives me primordial jouissance. Black truffle reared its earthy head again, engulfing the bok choy. I ate so much black truffle tonight that getting tested for fungal parasites crossed my mind.

Venison chop, truffled bok choy, cherry tomatoes, and carrot purée

Maple ice cream and a fruit gelée

Dessert selections included soufflés, cheesecake, assorted chocolate-centric dishes, but I wanted something a bit savory.

Squash and ginger meringue pie, cranberry sorbet, frozen grape, and a chocolate truffle

Petite fours

As I dug into the madeleines, the General Manager and sommelier stopped by my table to discuss the San Francisco dining scene, and we ended up comparing our experiences, before it was finally time for me to go.

Madeleines

Fleur de Lys, Las Vegas (March 2008)

This being my third meal at the Hubert Keller franchise, I harbored a slight concern that the food might lose some of its allure. Not only did we enjoy superb food, but the service also exceeded all ex ante expectations.

The amuse was a friendly hello from the kitchen. Concentrated droplets of grapefruit and cranberry woke up the palate, and the sweet beet tamed the tartness.

Beet and goat cheese salad

Starting with the tuna and continuing through the remaining savory courses, Fleur de Lys’ breads became sine qua nons, specifically the rosemary-caramelized onion foccacia and the pretzel roll. The lime and vinegar sauce threatened to overpower the dish, but anise and sesame evened out the flavors, ensuring that the tuna’s freshness remained the focal interest.

Ahi tuna tartare, fennel salad, ginger ponzu, sesame seed tuile

It is a given that veal ravioli, kampachi, and duck are delish. The vegetables, alas, tend to get overlooked at one’s peril. Cut carrots into canoe shapes, coat them in veal stock, and you can get anyone to nosh on them ad infinitum.

Veal and Yukon Gold potato ravioli, braised carrots, pea foam

Ok, so maybe I will have to expiate for my two-day foie gras binge, but it is so bloody delicious. Add two butyraceous pieces of brioche and you have a winning – and Lipitor-inducing – combination.

Foie gras, raspberry, strawberry, blackberry, Cabernet sauvignon reduction

Brioche

Poaching the kampachi lent a velvety texture. The pickled mushrooms and ginger were piquant. Tempura-coated scallions furtively blended into the ginger foam, detected only by their mountainous batter and the imbricating parlsey.

Olive oil poached kampachi, pickled shitakes, tempura scallions, ginger foam

The bok choy’s size relative to the duck is a testament to Keller’s reverence for vegetables. In general, an ancillary viand should not detract from the main ingredient. In this case, the bitter crucifer confidently towered over the supine, webbed-footed waddler. The cipollini onion topped with cracklings ought to be available to order by the half-dozen.

Duck breast, duck confit, chestnut purée, cipollini onion, duck cracklings, baby bok choy

If there is anything I would deem posh boba, this would definitely qualify.

Coconut tapioca soup, kiwi, tempura plantain, strawberry, passion fruit-coconut sorbet

I reluctantly passed up the coffee service for fear that caffeine at 8:30 would keep me up too late, yet I could not resist quaffing the iced cappuccino.

Cappuccino, Bailey’s ice cream

The warm, lava-like fondant was rich, fit more for a chocolate fiend.

Chocolate fondant, banana liquor

Kaffir lime sorbet, angel food cake, spring berries

After eating the petite fours, the perquisites of knowing the staff kicked in. A freshly baked batch of madeleines arrived. And then a duo of pièces de résistance occurred: Chef Keller greeted us at our table, followed by our server, who invited us into the kitchen. Simply put, Chef Keller exudes panache. As for the kitchen, it looked more like the National Security Agency’s headquarters with immersion circulators, stolid cooks at every station, and a surveillance camera to watch diners progress through their courses. With such affable service, I would not mind dining at Fleur de Lys three more times.

Petite fours

Madeleines

Picasso, Las Vegas (March 2009)

Las Vegas mogul Steve Wynn has some noteworthy accomplishments to his name, perhaps none more so than luring Julian Serrano away from Masa’s in San Francisco.

With two-star Michelin recipient Coi still etched in my hypothalamus, Picasso had to follow one of San Francisco’s best. Located in the Bellagio, Picasso’s ambiance did not disappoint. Eleven Picasso paintings – exceeding over $100 million (I cannot imagine many takers any time soon) - adorn the walls; additionally, we were seated near a window with an eye-level perspective of the “lake.”

The silky smooth raw salmon with the cold cucumber was a refreshing bite after the soup.

Corn soup, salmon-marscapone wrap, cucumber and mint salad, quail egg, osetra caviar

After last night’s adamantine lobster, I savored the tender chunks of decadent crustacean.

Lobster salad, apple-champagne vinaigrette, tomato, cantaloupe, celery

In essence, this dish involved two items: a scallop and a potato. Such straightforward simplicity necessitates extraordinary execution. I enjoyed it all - the crisp potato chip, the creamy pomme purée, and the just slightly warmed through scallop.

Scallop, potato mousseline, veal jus

The foie gras needs no elaboration beyond saying that it was pure opulence. As surreptitious as Goldman Sachs receiving $13 billion as part of the initial AIG bailout, a piece of brioche soaked up all of the fatty drippings. I am wont to see citrus and liver; in this dish, however, I can chalk up the pear as yet another fruit and foie permutation. The toothsome almonds sufficiently lightened the dish and contributed a needed textural counterpoint.

Foie gras, honey-Muscat poached pear, crushed almond, brioche, crème fraîche gastrique

After the fusillade of meat and fish Mesa Grill piled in front of us, it was a welcome adjustment to see a more reasonable meat to vegetable ratio. The quickly seared pigeon left the breasts a lusciously mouthwatering crimson. To the touch, it felt like a pudgy cheek. A cherry note could be detected in the jus, obviating any possibility for the squab to be too salty. Wild rice takes forever to cook, so I appreciate the laborious dedication the kitchen put forth just for an accoutrement. The copious amount of parmesan made the side dish even more inviting.

Squab, asparagus, carrot, wild rice risotto, wild game jus

The rosemary sprig impregnated the potato’s paunch with its herbal fragrance. As for the thick chop, it was more tender than pieces of veal tenderloin that I have tasted. The savory part of our meal could not have ended on a more Elysian note, as the Bellagio water show commenced, bellowing Andrea Bocelli’s “It’s Time to Say Goodbye.”

Veal chop, rosemary potato, wild mushrooms

I made frequent use of the raisin bread provided alongside the cheese. Dehors the Roquefort, I liked the raisin rind for its dichotomous flavor and texture.

Roquefort, chèvre, manchego, raisin rind

I degusted the sorbet, which hit the palate like a blackberry explosion.

Opera cake, Muscat sorbet

The lemon meringue and grapefruit jelly offered a pleasing conclusion to the meal. As we walked out, the reservationist handed us two boxes of breakfast pastries.

Petite fours

Picasso reminds me of a well-engineered roller coaster – to wit, the first three dishes take you up to the top of the steep slope, the next two – foie gras and squab/veal chop – can be considered the exhilarating drop, and finally the ride comes to a smooth and most satisfying end, as the kitchen returns you back to the station, leaving you helplessly yearning for one more go-round.

Mesa Grill, Las Vegas (March 2009)

My affinity for Food Network television stars has waned since Mario Batali’s show was canceled. Bobby Flay now enjoys the esteem that comes with being one of the few actual chefs on the channel.

Due to an array of constraints - Bradley Ogden and Restaurant Guy Savoy are closed on Tuesdays and my mother’s show was at Caesar’s Palace – we were prodded into Mesa Grill’s direction. Going in to dinner, I could not help but hope that Ben Bernanke et al. would backstop our bill – as he did for Jamie Dimon when JP Morgan stepped in to rescue Bear Stearns - if the meal turned out to be “toxic.”

When walking into Mesa Grill, one is bombarded by the variegated interior – blues, greens, oranges, and reds. It seems like something straight out of a Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas acid trip. And yet, it makes sense, for once the food arrives, those same colors recrudesce in the form of blue corn meal, pea risotto, Ancho chili sauce, and assorted seafood.

While my mother decided to go with the prix fixe menu, I hopscotched over the appetizers, ordering two entrées instead.

At the risk of sounding querimonious, let me start with the dish’s deficiencies. First, as the picture can attest, it was oily. Second, I have heretofore never understood what people mean when they said that lobster can be chewy if poorly cooked. Just to cut through the tail meat required quite a bit of effort; not even Fletcherizing would have helped. Third, while the lobster claw provides a dramatic presentation, removing the meat meant that I would have to drench my fingers in the aforementioned oily liquid. Chief among the dish’s auspicious elements was the sinus-clearing broth. Coriander balanced the sweet scallop and mussels. Both the blue corn stick and the walnut and raisin-studded bread also served as a palate emollient.

Cioppino with lobster tail and claw, snapper, mussels, a scallop, and a blue corn stick

Salad, kidney and garbanzo beans, olives, blue corn chips

Pardon the untenable Rachael Ray reference – and the uncharacteristically monepic construction – but yum-o. The meat on the rack was, as always, difficult to access. Floating in the jus, the loin and leg were so tender. After finishing the rabbit, I still faced a sizable portion of risotto. Seeing a pile of peas was a thrill, given the paucity of vegetables in the meal, and to my surprise, they were not overcooked. My only gripe was the bean sprouts’ length, which made for inelegant eating.

Braised rabbit leg, loin, and rack, pea risotto, and bean sprouts

This was a well-seasoned and balanced combination. The dry rub on the pork coupled with the ancho chili packed a peppery punch, leaving me no choice but to lunge my fork into the sweet potato tamale.

Pork tenderloin with an Ancho chili sauce, sweet potato tamale, and pecan butter

Espresso layer cake

Summa summarum, although Flay is no longer the proud beneficiary of a Michelin star, he delivers exciting Southwestern cuisine.

Coi, San Francisco (March 2009)

This was a challenging restaurant to fast for. My reservation was for 6pm, so inanition would set in well before I even made it to San Francisco.

Had I eaten at Coi two months ago, I would not have appreciated what Daniel Patterson was doing. Due to my recent fascination with non-meat viands, though, I was excited to try his eclectic menu. I have seen him at farmers' markets picking out produce for dinner, valorizing small-scale farmers.

Before I chronicle dinner, I should probably mention the North Beach neighborhood Coi resides in. Circumambient businesses include at least two strip clubs, replete with immund dratchells. And as for the dining room, if you are looking for a restaurant with a scenic view, Coi is not it, for the windowless space and padded walls resemble a modern-day One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest scene.

Bring on the chemistry. This amuse acts as a microcosm for Patterson's cooking style: flavorful and silky.

Milk and honey

The silkiness continued with the first course - a chemical concoction that exceeds my knowledge. The alabaster ball holds concentric circles of flavors and temperatures with the inner most layer being a grapefruit sorbet and the next layer a mousse. To the bowl's left lies a grapefruit, ginger, and tarragon aroma that the server suggested I dab on my wrist.

Pink grapefruit, ginger, tarragon, black pepper with aroma

This dish looked like a snapshot from an air hockey game where the saucers were preparing to carom off a rail. Vadouvan tastes similar to curry powder, so it offset the sweet beets.

Beets and vadouvan

What a beautiful presentation. Insofar as flavors and textures, they were spot on - peppery chicory, creamy goat cheese, a crisp black olive wafer, and crunchy granny smith cubes.

Inverted goat cheese salad, black olive tart, chicory, green apple

At the server's behest, I gently stirred the soup, turning a viscous cream color into a verdant green. It has been ages since I last ate snails; I, thus, savored each chewy mollusk, making sure to ally it with radishes.

Parsley root and green garlic soup, braised snails, radish

Where is the pig's head, I asked myself? Oh, it is that luculent layer coating the sturgeon, imparting a smoky bacon flavor. My only gripe was the farmed caviar, which is simply inferior, lacking the distinct brininess of its wild brethren.

Sturgeon, pig's head, caviar vinaigrette, nasturtium potatoes

I am floored at how each vegetable maintained its structural integrity despite the soup's scorching temperature.

Tofu mousseline, yuba, seaweed, mushroom dashi

This is Patterson's take on paella, and it is delicious.

Black and white rice shellfish porridge, abalone, clams, mussels, broccoli

Prime New York strip - a well-marbled cut packed with flavor. Patterson trims the fat, renders it out, and then sautés the pieces to a vinaceous hue.

Prather Ranch New York strip, bone marrow, cauliflower

Acidic vinaigrette cut through the unusual cheese amalgam.

Trio cheese - goat, cow, and crème fraîche - and mâche

Since I am not too keen on sweet desserts, I found myself in awe of their aesthetics, relegating the flavors to the periphery.

Kiwi shooter

The ice cream had a sweet, piney note.

Blood orange curd, Douglas Fir ice cream, walnut crumble

The custard exuded a pleasantly flowery aroma.

Jasmine custard, hazelnuts, cocoa "dirt"

The cookie crumbs made the confection a bit too sweet.

Chocolate truffle coated with chocolate chip crumbs

Again, this was really sugary.

Tahitian vanilla bean milkshake, olive oil

As a logomaniac, I find myself struggling to scour through my lexicon for words to describe Coi's food - hypermodern, avant garde, Post-Chez Panisse .... What I can say unequivocally is that Coi calibrated my Michelin barometer going into dinner at Julian Serrano's Michelin two star Picasso in less than two weeks.