Ame, San Francisco (January 2009)

As good as last night's dinner was, and as much as I wanted Fleur's flavors etched on my palate, I knew I would have to eat eventually, so why not follow up with another Michelin-starred restaurant? I should be upfront about my knowledge dearth when it comes to Japanese ingredients. Sake and shiso, for instance, are novel flavors. We were seated promptly, and in knee-jerk fashion, I decided on the tasting menu.

The mozzarella's Pillsbury paunch texture worked as an adhesive, absorbing caviar, greens, and beets. Centralizing the caviar would have improved this course, for the utensils - a normal size fork and knife - were ill-equipped to deal with the miniscule roe.

First course: Burrata mozzarella, heirloom beet salad, American sturgeon caviar

Hot soup with sweet ingredients is clever. My favorite? Not quite.

Second course: Apple and kohirabi soup with Maine lobster

The cod seems to levitate in the bowl while maintaining a slight crust (it rests on a dumpling). Tangy and salty elements can be tasted in every bite. I did my best to sop up the broth with the bread provided; had I not been dining with a mate, I surely would have slurped up the remaining bits. It is no wonder why this is the restaurant's signature dish.

Third course: Sake marinated black cod in a shiso broth

The imbricating medallions mask the pork's medium doneness - a bit overdone for my taste. A little fat was left on the loin, which prevented it from drying out.

Fourth course: Kurobu pork loin, turnips, chrysanthemum, cherry blossom jus

Flaky crust, a tart filling, and chocolate-free, this is my kind of dessert.

Fifth course: Huckleberry pie, huckleberry ice cream, candied lemon

As our meal came to an end, the din intensified, particularly at the table behind us; the large party essentially used the restaurant as a day care center. Despite this minor inconvenience, the meal was stellar. Ame's tasting menu is well-crafted and reasonably priced.